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The San Blas islands – locally called Kuna Yala – are inhabited by the indigenous Kuna Indians, who have mostly maintained their traditional lifestyle. The women dress in their colorful attire consisting of hand sewn mola breast pieces, a lively skirt, red headscarves, golden nose ring, long strings of beads wrapped around the calves and other jewelry. Men and kids wear western-style clothes. While there are a few modernized villages with concrete buildings, satellite dishes and a generator producing electricity, most families live in simple thatched-roofed huts without electricity, running water and sewer. Water is obtained from a river, the sky or a well, solar panels or flashlights produce light and outhouses take care of the other business.

 Kuna woman cleaning fish for dinner                           © Liesbet Collaert

Kuna Indians travel in dugout canoes called ulus. They paddle about, use an outboard engine or a sail to get from island to island. They catch fish, crabs, lobster, octopus or conch to survive and tend to plots of land on the mainland or off shore. The impressive string of idyllic islands is chock full with palm trees, containing an abundance of tasty coconuts. These nuts are their livelihood and are sold worldwide or locally or they are traded with the Colombian trading boats passing through the region. Visitors are not allowed to take any.

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Transiting the impressive Panama Canal is a dream of many people, water based or land based. Going from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean via this short cut takes about 12 hours and the cost depends on the length of the vessel and the urgency to go through. All boat things considered it is not that expensive for a 40’ sailboat to do the transit. If you don’t use an agent, the fee is well under $1000. The best news about transiting the Canal is that anybody can do it. You don’t need to go on your own boat. As a matter of fact, it is way less stressful if you don’t.

The monkey fist is attached and returned ashore          © Liesbet Collaert

All year long, pleasure craft (and massive cargo ships) transit the Panama Canal. March is the busiest period for cruising boats to go “west”, because it coincides with the best period to cross the Pacific Ocean and explore the many idyllic islands on the way to New Zealand or Southeast Asia. Every boat going through is required to have four line handlers, in addition to the captain. Most crew on sailboats consist of two people, so owners of sailboats are constantly looking for extra hands, and notices are found on bulletin boards of marinas, hostels, supermarkets, restaurants and bars near the Canal facilities on both sides. If you would like to be a line handler, it is not hard to make it happen, especially if you are already traveling in Panama.

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Geographically part of the Leeward Islands and politically part of France, Guadeloupe is situated in the Eastern Caribbean, with Dominica to the south, Antigua to the north and Montserrat to the northeast.  The territory is big compared to its neighbors and consists of many different islands. Basse Terre and Grande Terre are separated by a river and make up the “mainland”, while La Desirade, Marie Galante and the Saintes are lying in a semi-circle around the bottom. Even more islands are scattered about the mainland, making this area very attractive to sailors and cruisers.

 Deshaies anchorage                                                                                               © Liesbet Collaert

The “mainland”

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A little over two months ago my friend Jane and I went on our usual walk to check the surf, slipping quietly past the local school and out onto the headlands overlooking rolling lines of swell. It is so easy to dismiss the simple beauties when enticing swell lures your attention forward...but on this particular walk we were struck by the striking beauty of the Frangipani flowers, swaying quietly in the soft sea breeze against surrounding thick green leaves.

The Frangipani trees, or Plumeria, around the Byron Bay and Lennox Head area are divine. Yellows, whites, pinks and reds, from the smallest cuttings to the oldest trees these flowers line the east coast.

Cultures throughout Asia and the Pacific have adopted these dazzling beauties associating them with love, friendship and even divine worship and it is common to be welcomed in many Asia Pacific countries with leis of strung Frangipani flowers.

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When the crew at Patagonia invite us to a special night with Gerry Lopez, we find babysitters and attend without question! On tour down under for his book signing, Gerry stopped by the Currumbin Surf World Museum last Monday night joining local legends for a night of nostalgia and inspiration. Our good friends at Patagonia were kind enough to invite Kuni and I to the event, where beers flowed just as freely as Wayne Lynch's good Aussie humour. 

International surf film extraordinaire  Jack McCoy kicked off the speeches honoring his good friend Gerry, and finishing with the trailer to his new film 'A Deeper Shade of Blue' and a special screening of Gerry's section in the movie. South coast pioneer and one of Australia’s most influential surfers at the turn of the shortboard revolution Wayne Lynch took over the microphone next, mixing his dry humour with the highest grade of respect to introduce the man of the night. Not a legend went unnoticed as the likes of Bob McTavish, Rusty Miller, Dave ‘Baddy’ Treloar, Dick Van Straalen, Mal Sutherland, Dick Hoole and a jam packed local audience sat with smiles listening on to Gerry Lopez talk of his new book, stories of surf and snow and spiritual awareness.

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Recently, a reader of my blog asked a very simple question: “What do you miss while you are living on a sailboat full time for so many years?” The question – even though I never really think about it – is easy and interesting, coming from somebody who lives on land in the United States with all the comforts and conveniences imaginable. I thought the answer would be easy as well: “Nothing really.” But, when I give it some thought, I have to admit there are a few things that I miss. Well, maybe not really miss, but that I wish I could have or enjoy from time to time.

 Getting fresh water by dinghy                                    © Liesbet Collaert 

Conveniences

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There is so much going on right now in Australia it is often hard to keep up! Here's a quick look at what is on over the next month and a bit...

Gerry Lopez Book Tour

They call him Mr Pipe but I prefer Mr Lopez. A world surfing Icon, Patagonia Ambassador and living legend Gerry Lopez is currently on his Australian book tour and if you are around whilst he is in town I highly recommend you pop in and say hi. 

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Belinda Baggs, body surfing mumma

Little baby Hunter turned 4 months old last week, a milestone in those early stages of life, and a milestone in the mumma rehabilitation effort! After two weeks of constant rain the sun finally shared herself with the east coast of Australia today, perfect timing for the return of good friend and amazingly talented surfer/artist Karlee Mackie. Despite a couple days of flying home from England, Karlee was in top form hooting up the street and dragging my tired butt down to the beach for a body surf in the punchy beach breaks.

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Grey skies have opened their arms to this latter segment of January. I don’t like to complain as we are much more comfortable in our current house on rainy days compared to our comrades on the Yeti farm…but I am a sucker for some sunshine.

Banging out deadline after deadline I find myself craving for Ben Harper’s voice to kiss my ears, singing “she’s only happy in the sun…”

I’ve always found it amusing the way humans communicate with each other about the weather. Conversation starts, mood breakers, silence stoppers….

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20 years on since Taylor Steele first released the surf classic Momentum, and the surfing's legendary filmmaker has evolved his style and status time and time again. 

In recent years he has joined Corona in some awe inspiring commercial work, filming bikini clad chicks and toned surfer boys drinking icy cold Coronas at those stunning destinations that we would all rather be. A huge fan of Taylor's surf movies and travel documentaries, I was sceptical at first when I heard he had gone commercial with Corona, but after seeing the films literally ate my words. 

Here is a taste of Taylor's most recent colaboration with Corona, a snippet of life on a boat with beer, good looking humans, and damn fine surf. Shot in the Maldives, it surely is where I'd rather be!

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From February 11^th to 26^th Australia’s iconic surfing destination the Gold Coast will host the first ever Bleach Festival. A surfing lifestyle event, Bleach will spotlight surf culture’s finest artists, writers, filmmakers, photographers and musicians across multiple venues between Snapper Rocks and Currumbin.

Bleach will lead up to the Quiksilver Pro world championship surfing event, making February a month of non stop surf culture and entertainment. Beachside and original pop up events will include shipping container art galleries, mobile truck concerts, children’s workshops, a street festival and outdoor light shows and cinematic experiences.

The Gold Coast will come alive day and night, be sure to check out the website and get amongst the Bleach culture, finishing up with Australia’s prime world surfing contest.

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For tens or even hundreds of years, Colombia has been a very dangerous country to visit, by land or by sea. In recent years, however, the bad reputation has lifted (Venezuela took over) and every day a constant stream of backpackers explores the region. Many cruisers follow suit, especially since Colombia is nicely on the way to Panama and its amazing San Blas islands. It is the perfect place to break up the long sailing trips west.

Cabo de la Vela, Colombia                                            ©Liesbet Collaert

Cabo de la Vela

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The infamous Burleigh Point will again host the world's best junior surfers at the Billabong World Junior Championships beginning tomorrow on the Gold Coast, Australia. 

Arashi Kato from Japan will be giving his best, one of Japan's hottest young kids stomping it on the tour. 

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India Surf Festival

Two years have passed by since our first expedition to India. Those who have followed my blogs and our Surfer’s Eyes website have seen the photos and heard the tales of golden sands and slick warm waters, India as host to liquid gold without the crowds. As we foot stepped our way around the west coast, surfing with the tiny handful of locals it never once crossed my mind that a couple of years later India would host a Surf Festival. Well, that time has come.

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