The first time I ever got successfully to the end of Daisy Looper, my beloved 9' 2'', I was so shocked I promptly fell off. I'd tried so many times and failed that when it actually happened I just wasn't ready for it. Learning to noseride can be a painful journey; lack of success normally involves graceless nosediving and being put into the vulnerable position of being in front of your bulky board - somewhere close behind is a big, sharp fin. I have surfaced to find my board nowhere to be seen and then unexpectedly dropping from the heavens, tail first. That encounter left me with an enormous bump on the head and a multi-coloured shiner which made me the butt of jokes for days.
PHOTO CREDIT - MIKE BAIRD