Deneice's blog

September may seem a little early to start talking Christmas gifts but perhaps not. Certainly the supermarkets, high street shops and advertising campaigns of manufacturers don't consider it before time – already we are being bombarded with images and shelves of Christmas themed goods and presents. Additionally, in the present economic climate there is perhaps more need to spread out our spending and plan ahead.

(NINA MATTHEWS)

As a surfer of many years standing I have received my share of surf related gifts. Presents from other surfers or surf buddies tend to be spot on – they know what I'm into, what I've got, what I need and/or want, what is useful or useless and most essentially they know the difference between real surfing gifts and items made by non-surfing industry companies who are just trying to cash in on the hype and have missed the mark by a mile.

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The global explosion of the Internet has changed things forever for anyone with computer access – the way we buy things, the way we socialise and the instant access to an infinite number of resources on any subject you care to mention. Surf travel used to be full of mystery and for the intrepid only. The web has changed all that meaning any surf travel planning is incredibly easy.

Huge amounts of research and fact finding can be done on any surf break in the world without leaving your house as well as finding and booking accommodation and travel in advance. How easily can I get there? What will the waves be like in December? What are my other options nearby if the swell direction changes? Is there anywhere I can get wax? How expensive will it be? There are a wealth of websites that will answer these and many other questions and concerns but which are the best? Here's my top 5.

Wannasurf

www.wannasurf.com

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In theory it's a surfer's dream – the manipulation of ocean bathymetry, or the sea bed, to create waves where previously there were only surfing scraps or no waves at all. However, despite many attempts by surf reef architects and oceanographers and many years of work, research and information gathering, there are still only a small handful of permanent surfing reefs worldwide. Some projects, eagerly awaited for months if not years, have subsequently turned out to be spectacularly expensive flops.

So, are we any nearer to the dream of creating a predictable surf break wherever we want it?

Construction in progress for Bournemouth's ill fated artificial reef                  (Cornerhouse)

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Ask any surfer what their ideal conditions are and, allowing for different opinions on wave height, the answer will almost certainly be the same – clean waves in well spaced sets. So, why are these conditions not a constant for us surfers and why do North Sea surfers experience it less often than Cornish surfers for example? The answer lies in the difference between groundswell and windswell and how waves are generated from the very beginning.

STUART WEBSTER

A Wave is Born

A wave starts its life when currents of air rushing from areas of high pressure to low pressure affect the flat surface of the ocean. The place where the air is most turbulent is called the storm centre. These air flows randomly exert pressure on the water surface which push down in some areas while the displaced water forms a bump at the side. The small undulating motions this produces on the ocean are called capillary waves – this is the birth of a wave.

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It is possible to surf and not understand the first thing about how and why waves break – I have a few surf buddies who fall into that category. However, some knowledge, even at the most basic level, could help to maximise your surfing in each session. Beginners particularly, who are more restricted by the conditions in which they can learn to surf most easily and safely, will benefit from a little advance knowledge.

                                                                                                                             MARTIN CATHRAE

What is a wave?

In order to get a breaking wave it is necessary to have ocean swell or in other words, energy travelling in a certain direction which has been generated by either local or far distant storms. Waves are created when that swell moves into shallower water and comes into contact with the sea bed. The top of the unbroken wave or swell line will continue to travel at the same speed as before while the bottom of it will be slowed down by the ocean floor. This makes the wave unstable and it breaks. How the wave breaks and what kind of ride it will create for a surfer is dependant on the bathymetry or shape and make-up of the sea bottom. This is because some waves release their energy slowly as the swell moves gradually from deep to shallow water while others release their energy all at once if the transition from deep to shallow is sudden.

Understanding refraction

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Most surfers would probably agree that you never stop learning to surf. We are forever striving to improve our performance, increase our wave count, ride a slightly bigger wave or take on more challenging conditions. For most of us there are always going to be better surfers; some-one in the water who seems to catch every wave they paddle for, have an almost uncanny knowledge of exactly where to bag the prime waves and when up and riding leave the rest of us gaping with admiration and envy.

It is inevitable then that each and every one of us has a personal list of our most admired figures, heroes and heroines who have established their place within surf history and culture.

As a soul surfer to whom surfing is a spiritual thing and who is not particularly interested in the competitive circuit, it is rarely the championship contenders who catch my eye. I tend to find my heroes come from other walks of surfing life.

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Unlike most sports which have a fixed arena or playing area, a surfer's environment is ever changing. This factor combined with crowded line-ups, fickle breaks and flat spells mean it is almost impossible for a surfer to get any sort of repetitive training. This in turn makes it hard to address any areas of your surfing which you know need improvement - sometimes only a few seconds of several hours in the water will be spent actually up and riding waves . The original balance boards were invented with this very problem in mind and can really help a surfer improve his surfing without even getting wet. Additionally, they can be quite a lot of fun.

What is a balance board?

Balance boards, which have been around since the 1960s, are now available with many variations in how they work. They usually comprise of a small platform which resembles a skateboard deck but can also be a disc. This is then balanced on top of some kind of movable or unstable platform, the most common being a roller tube or a ball. The idea is to tilt and move the upper surface with your feet. This works much like a seesaw for those balance boards that work with a roller underneath. This action is intended to simulate surfing to some degree with some models achieving this more than others.

With some it is possible to master the basics within minutes while others are incredibly challenging. Although they can be a great deal of fun, balance boards are not a toy, and are used as much by high level surfers as they are by novices.

Why use a balance board?

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Surf magazines have been a part of surf culture for many decades but, with the explosion of on-line content as well as hard copy, there are now literally hundreds to choose from. For many surfers, surf magazines along with surf DVDs keep them mind surfing and sane through long, flat spells. They can also be a valuable resource for all things surf related – the latest news, competition updates, upcoming surfers, advice, discussions and the most recent innovations in surf board and wetsuit design.

However, as with most things, not all surf magazines are created equal and although preference is somewhat personal there are those mags which seem to stand out a little from the rest. Here is a selection of some of the top magazines from around the world including those with the largest circulation and some of my favourite magazines which are a little lesser known.

The Surfer's Journal

This US produced magazine which markets itself as being 'half magazine, half book' has been around for just over 20 years. It prides itself on being a little different from the rest of the pack and achieves it. It isn't one of the best known magazines because it refuses to subscribe to the trend for being fashionable/cool and you will find very few advertisements and little competition circuit news here.

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For some time we had been wondering how on earth we could get more surfing time. Weekend 800 mile return trips to Cornwall were frustrating, especially when the ocean decided it wasn't going to play ball and sparkled blue and invitingly but sadly without a wave in sight. Waiting for waves on the shores of the dull, brown North Sea was even worse. Then fate took a part and an all-too-close personal encounter with the Grim Reaper forced our hand.

CHASING THE ENDLESS SUMMER

As I watched the lights on the hospital ceiling flash past me while I was rushed into emergency surgery I realised that if this was the end then not only had my life been short then it had also been a little unfulfilled. I prayed to the gods of second chances – let me have more time and I promise I'll make it count. It turned out that although I had been on the Grim Reaper's list that day I hadn't been top priority and so I set about honouring my promise. So, what to do with this second chance? I know – lets travel the world and surf, chasing the 'endless summer' for real.

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Surf travel is very personal, the ideal meaning different things to each of us. For some it is wave time interspersed with partying while others seek escape and solitude or immersion into culturally diverse environments. Dream conditions may mean playful ankle nibblers on a huge Mal; others don't feel they are surfing unless they are charging down double overhead faces.

When picking a surf destination there's a bit more to it than ticking the obvious boxes for 'sun' or 'cheap'. If you really want to find your ideal then make sure that you have taken all of the following into account.

                                                                                                                                      WordCat57

Swell Consistency

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Wild camping, also known as freedom camping, is the practice of overnighting away from official camp sites. The Western Isles used to be wild camping heaven, with the Scots in general having a very different attitude to it than the rest of the UK, but things are slowly changing and as usual thanks to the actions of the thoughtless few. You can still wild camp in the Western Isles – it is permissible by law through the Scottish Access Code – but there are a few things you will need to be aware of. By observing a few rules you can ensure you are camping responsibly and also help ensure that wild camping remains an option for visitors, including us surfers.

The Scottish Outdoor Access Code

This law allows the public access rights in the countryside and includes the practice of wild camping. However, this doesn't mean you can just roll up and pitch your tent anywhere you like – there are some restrictions. As a general rule you must stay away from crops, private dwellings, farm animals and historic buildings and observe any advice concerning fragile ecosystems.

Be aware that the Access Code applies to tent campers on foot. You will be more restricted if you are in a camper van.

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Wouldn't it be good if we could just hitch our board under our arm, book the flight and head off into surf paradise for weeks of riding turquoise waters without a wetsuit? You may think that just you and your board are all you need for a perfect time on an upcoming surf trip but there may be a few other things which need a bit of attention.

PHOTO CREDIT - JUSTIN DE LA ORNELLAS

Booking flights

Getting on a plane with your surf board is no longer the cheap and easy option it once was. Some airlines are now refusing to take surf boards at all while others will let you travel with your surfboard but charge you heavily for it. My blog on airline travel with a surfboard lists the airlines to avoid and those which are surfer friendly.

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The overall feeling of the Western Isles, also known as the Outer Hebrides, is one of wilderness and immersion in nature. The dramatic coasts and rugged scenery of the islands can make you feel far removed from fast paced 21^st century living and at times the weather is harsh and even violent. In fitting with the isolated and back-to-nature charm of this island chain, many of the camp sites are of the basic, no frills variety although there is also a sprinkling of those which have full modern facilities for the camper a little less inclined to rough it.

When I first started surfing the Western Isles about eight years ago you could count the camp sites on one hand. However, in an effort to control damage to sensitive natural environments and reduce wild camping practices, several more camp sites have sprung up with plans in the pipeline for more yet. The Isles of Lewis and Harris have the most options while outside of these two islands the camp sites are still rather few and far between. This isn't a completely exhaustive list of the Western Isles camp sites but gives a mix of the cheapest, the most scenic and those with some facilities. Most of the camp sites don't have a website or even in some cases a telephone number so just ask a local who will direct you.

Isle of Lewis

Cnip Grazing Trust also known as Traigh na Beirigh

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In the world of surfing a 10 second ride is considered long, 20 seconds epic and anything longer comes from the realms of fantasy. Imagine then catching a wave and riding it for over an hour.

England may not figure as a classic surf destination but the River Severn in the west of the country is home to a natural phenomena known as a river bore which creates a long, rideable wave. As bores go, and from a surfing point of view, the Severn bore is considered one of the best in the world and every year surfers, wind surfers, kayakers and paddle surfers come from far and wide to try their hand.

PHOTO CREDIT - THE SEA THE SEA

How are bores created?

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There are a surprisingly large number of hostels for such a comparatively remote and small chain of islands. Sometimes going under the name of 'bunkhouses', the hostels range from basic and functional to 5 star comfort. The prices vary too but all offer a budget conscious option for curling up in bed after a hard day's surfing.

Proximity to the surf varies from hostel to hostel and in all cases you will need your own transport to get about.

                                                                                                  PHOTO CREDIT - WWW.UHI.AC.UK

Isle of Lewis

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