Sitting here at the computer today working on my article for BLUE magazine, I busily flicked through photos Kuni has taken over the years of really inspiring surfers. Young to old, we've been priveleged to work with numerous wave sliders from timeless heroes to underground soul surfers and aspiring kids. Having been kept out of the water myself for the duration of my current pregnancy due to the disaster in Japan, there are days when I am about to crack and feel desperate for the chance to grab even the simplest of waves. I find my looking at Kuni's shots and re-reading interviews I have conducted over the years helps ease the tension of my temporary life on dry land, encouraging regular 'mind' surf sessions that are inevitably food for life.
I'm dedicating this blog to those who have contributed to us putting food on our table, but mostly for their profound addictions to living the simple life and connecting to nature through surfing. Without these people I would no doubt have jumped in contaminated water by now!