Blogs

Sitting here at the computer today working on my article for BLUE magazine, I busily flicked through photos Kuni has taken over the years of really inspiring surfers. Young to old, we've been priveleged to work with numerous wave sliders from timeless heroes to underground soul surfers and aspiring kids. Having been kept out of the water myself for the duration of my current pregnancy due to the disaster in Japan, there are days when I am about to crack and feel desperate for the chance to grab even the simplest of waves. I find my looking at Kuni's shots and re-reading interviews I have conducted over the years helps ease the tension of my temporary life on dry land, encouraging regular 'mind' surf sessions that are inevitably food for life.

I'm dedicating this blog to those who have contributed to us putting food on our table, but mostly for their profound addictions to living the simple life and connecting to nature through surfing. Without these people I would no doubt have jumped in contaminated water by now!

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Most surfers would probably agree that you never stop learning to surf. We are forever striving to improve our performance, increase our wave count, ride a slightly bigger wave or take on more challenging conditions. For most of us there are always going to be better surfers; some-one in the water who seems to catch every wave they paddle for, have an almost uncanny knowledge of exactly where to bag the prime waves and when up and riding leave the rest of us gaping with admiration and envy.

It is inevitable then that each and every one of us has a personal list of our most admired figures, heroes and heroines who have established their place within surf history and culture.

As a soul surfer to whom surfing is a spiritual thing and who is not particularly interested in the competitive circuit, it is rarely the championship contenders who catch my eye. I tend to find my heroes come from other walks of surfing life.

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